Seasons and Sights Seen In a Year Along the Valles Caldera East Rim
Autumn
From Rim Run on Pajarito Mountain Ski Area, looking northwest and going clockwise above the aspens on the left, the slope of Cerro del Medio is next to a little piece of Cerros del Abrigo. Continuing around on the north rim are Cerro de la Garita, the nebulous bald splotches on far left horizon, and Garita Ridge-Hunter’s Point, the elongated bald triangle on the middle horizon. Then on the northeast rim, are the range of domes called the Sierra de Toledo, with the horseshoe shaped bald spot possibly being Cerro Toledo. At the edge of Valle de los Posos, valle in the foreground, are the west (left) and east (right, with tiny patch of yellow aspens) Cerros de los Posos, Cerro Toledo Rhyolite domes.
The significance of the tightly packed domes of the Sierra de Toledo is that they anchor the northeast rim of the Valles Caldera. The true northeast rim is located within a reciprocal conservation easement between Santa Clara Pueblo and the Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP). This easement abuts the boundary between Santa Clara Pueblo and the VCNP. The issue of public use and access within the VCNP side of the easement is one of the myriad issues that the VCNP will explore in years to come. People familiar with this area before 2000, when Baca Location No. 1 was purchased by the United States, say that there are beautiful views from this section of northeast rim. Perhaps with lots of patience, one day we’ll be able to see those views for ourselves. In the meantime, until the issue can be resolved, a check of Google Earth reveals lots of old logging roads that do not enter the easement. A way to bypass the easement, well below the true northeast Valles Caldera rim and the Santa Clara Pueblo boundary, could be explored but would require permission from the VCNP.
A lobe of Cerro del Medio separates the Valle de los Posos and Valle Grande(right) from the Valle Toledo (left). The Valle de los Posos births the San Antonio Creek, one of only two streams that drain outside the Valles Caldera. The headwaters of the other, the East Fork of the Jemez, arise at a divide between Valle de los Posos and Valle Grande. San Antonio Creek undulates through Valle Toledo and Valle San Antonio, toward San Antonio Mountain, and drains the northern and western caldera. The East Fork of the Jemez curves through the Valle Grande, through the Jemez National Recreation Area, and out San Diego Canyon, to drain the eastern and southern caldera. Both creeks join below Battleship Rock to become the Jemez River, which eventually empties into the Rio Grande.
The Valles Caldera rim mostly predates the actual caldera. Volcanism started in the Jemez Volcanic Field, which the Valles Caldera is part of, 14 million years ago and formed much of the highlands that now surround the caldera. The surface relief of these highlands is the topographic rim of the caldera and serves as the caldera’s water divide. On one side of the Valles Caldera rim, a raindrop trickles into the caldera and on the other, away from the caldera.
The rim is not the structural boundary of the actual caldera. The structural boundary is the perimeter of the ring-fracture around the resurgent dome and is well represented by the Valles Rhyolite ring-fracture domes (also called moat rhyolite domes) that surround Redondo. The difference in size between the structural boundary and the topographic rim of the caldera is mostly due to slumps and landslides that occurred after the collapse forming the caldera.
Cerro Bonito, with a yellow aspen grove on its shoulder, is the unofficially named mountain just north of Pajarito. On the horizon is Tschicoma, with its enticing triangular meadow, and the long, bald ridge that runs west of Tschicoma is the rim of Santa Clara Canyon. Tschicoma and Santa Clara Canyon rim are not on the Valles Caldera rim but are on the rim of the Toledo Embayment.
The Toledo Embayment is “stuck” onto the northeastern Valles Caldera and forms the northeast rim of the caldera but geologists do not consider the embayment to be a part of the Valles Caldera. The embayment may have formed at the same time as the Toledo Caldera collapse 1.6 million years ago and thus predates the Valles Caldera which collapsed 1.2 million years ago. One theory is that a small arm of the Toledo magma chamber extended into what is now the present day embayment area and when the Toledo Caldera evacuated itself, so did the magma chamber extension and the Toledo Embayment was formed. After that, the ring-fracture domes of the Toledo Caldera, collectively called the Sierra de Toledo, filled up the embayment and nicely formed the northeastern rim of the Valles Caldera when it was formed.
Late afternoon, from south meadow of Pajarito Mountain--the Valle Grande glistens with meanders of the East Fork of the Jemez. The south Valles Caldera rim wraps around the Valle Grande. Beginning, clockwise, are the broad, northern shoulder of Cerro Grande, the gentle, unassuming dome of Scooter Peak (with an unnamed peak between Cerro Grande and Scooter), and Rabbit Ridge west (right) of Scooter. On the middle horizon is South Mountain, next to a massive arm of Redondo. Skipping back across the Valle Grande from Redondo, a small lobe of Cerro del Medio hooks around Rincon de los Soldados, which is a small nook of the Valle Grande, nestled between the East Fork of the Jemez and Cerro del Medio.
In October 2006, this was the first snow I saw in the Jemez Mountains. Taken from the entrance road to Valle Grande Staging Area, VCNP Road VC01, the image shows a portion of the east and southeast caldera rims. Low hanging clouds obscure Pajarito Mountain’s tree speckled south meadow while clouds have lifted above Cerro Grande’s snow powdered hump. The East Fork of the Jemez crosses under the road.
Winter
This view of the northeastern and northern Valles Caldera rims from the freshly groomed Rim Run on Pajarito Mountain Ski Area was taken while snowshoeing to the top of Pajarito Mountain.
Valles Caldera Rim Trail will be cobbled together of existing trails, routes, and roads of different land ownership. They may not even connect together elegantly unless some new trail sections are built. Parts of the rim, Los Griegos, for example, have no trail at all in places that yet are quite walkable. Other parts have theoretical connectors which still need to be explored, like the southwest corner, with its steep cliffs and the disconnect between the south and west rim caused by heavily traveled, paved state highways.
The Valles Caldera rim landowners, Bandelier National Monument (BNM), Los Alamos Ski Club, Inc.(Pajarito Mountain Ski Area), Santa Clara Pueblo, Santa Fe National Forest (SFNF), and Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP), have not even officially signed on to the concept of Valles Caldera Rim Trail yet. But you should not let this dissuade you from going out and walking the Valles Caldera rim today. The parts on BNM, Pajarito Mountain Ski Area, SFNF, and VCNP’s free Coyote Call Hike (not on the rim but has access to Rabbit Ridge which is on the rim) are open now for you to enjoy!
Pajarito Mountain’s double-barreled views into both the southern and northern ends of the Valles Caldera are incomparable! Redondo Peak and Redondito’s knob are seen from south side of Pajarito Mountain. Most anywhere on the Valles Caldera rim, you can safely say “Yep, there’s Redondo!”
After the powerful eruption that created the Valles Caldera, the magma chamber under the caldera eventually refilled but it had run low on volatile gases so instead of exploding magma, it uplifted the overlying rock and formed Redondo, the resurgent dome of the Valles Caldera. The resurgent dome actually broke into three segments due to faulting. Redondo Border is the western part of the resurgent dome and is separated from Redondo and Redondito, the eastern portion, by Redondo Creek. Yet a third section of the resurgent dome is located north of Redondito. It is bounded by the Jaramillo and San Luis Creeks and it is the least uplifted portion of the resurgent dome.
From the backside of Pajarito, this is looking at the south rim of the Valles Caldera with a snow-covered felsenmeer on Rabbit Ridge gracefully arcing above Valle Grande. Rabbit Ridge’s distinctive rock field is clearly visible even from the north rim and is a good indicator of toward which direction you’re looking. Rabbit Mountain, on the west end of Rabbit Ridge, is a dome of Cerro Toledo Rhyolite formed after the Toledo Caldera collapse. Beyond Rabbit Ridge is Las Conchas and Los Griegos, also on the south rim. Within the Valle Grande (right of center) is South Mountain with tiny Cerro la Jara in front of it--both are ring-fracture domes of the Valles Caldera.
Spring
At Camp May saddle, on the east rim, between Pajarito Mountain and Cerro Bonito, is a small view over toward the south rim’s Rabbit Ridge, with its snow covered, squarish felsenmeer popping up on the right. Felsenmeer means, literally in German, sea of rock; it’s also called a rock field or block field.
From a meadow at Camp May saddle, looking toward the westernmost of Pajarito’s two peaks. This is where Rim Run, the westernmost ski run (furthest right), offers expansive views of the northern and northeastern Valles Caldera rims. Hidden in the woods near Rim Run is a trail that contours around this western knob. Someone has marked it by screwing bicycle reflectors onto trees. It’s dubbed the Reflector Trail and starts from lower Rim Run at a rock outcropping where snowboarders like to jump off boulders. It begins by crossing a small rock field, continues through the woods, and ends on Pajarito’s south meadow, above Valle Canyon Pass. It could be used as a possible connecting route, skirting Pajarito Mountain instead of going over the top, but such a trail would first need clearing as there’s much downed wood. A much bigger hurdle is that the Reflector Trail is on VCNP property and off limits for now.
Of all the paid, reservation only hikes offered within the VCNP, the only one that accesses the Valles Caldera rim is the La Garita Hike, which follows an old logging road up to the north rim of Garita Ridge-Hunter’s Point. Rabbit Ridge, on the south Valles Caldera rim, is jointly owned by BNM and the VCNP and can be accessed from either the VCNP’s Coyote Call Hike or BNM’s Alamo Boundary Trail for free, no reservation required!
Looking east toward Los Alamos from grasslands of Cañada Bonita on Guaje Canyon Trail 282 in SFNF. This trail winds around the west side of Cañada Bonita meadow, just outside the VCNP boundary fence and the Valles Caldera rim. Along the trail, between Cañada Bonita and Cerro Rubio, there are small views into the Valles Caldera. In places, it looks like just a hop, skip, and a jump but watch those cliffs! It is a popular trail used by hikers, hunters, runners, cross-country skiers, snowshoers, bicyclists and even the odd bear or two! Leafless now, the aspens will make your heart sing with their beauty in autumn.
Where could Redondo be? On top of the world, looking southwest from the expansive felsenmeer on Cerro Rubio. Trees have invaded the rocks but the views are still world class. In front of Redondo (left to right), are a lobe of Cerro del Medio and the logging road scalloped flank of Cerros del Abrigo.
From Cerro Rubio, which is on the east Valles Caldera rim, Valle Grande is the far valle with Scooter Peak and Rabbit Ridge rising beyond on the horizon. On left, the ski runs of Pajarito Mountain Ski Area play peek-a-boo and Valle de los Posos is in the immediate foreground. On right, an arm of Cerro del Medio comes down, separating the Valle de los Posos from the Valle Grande.
The larger western dome of the Cerros de los Posos floats just in front of Cerro Rubio’s rock field, near the line of conifers. The Cerros de los Posos are Cerro Toledo Rhyolite domes that erupted after the Toledo Caldera collapse but before the Valles Caldera cataclysm. In the background (left), the logging road-scarred Cerros del Abrigo is a ring-fracture dome of the Valles Caldera.
Summer
This is looking northeast across the Valle Grande at the Valles Caldera east rim. Pajarito Mountain’s tree-sprinkled meadow is pink.
The pullouts off NM-4 are hugely popular with droves of people stopping to observe and enjoy the Valles Grande from the roadside. On summer weekends, volunteers “man” the pullouts to answer questions people have about the VCNP. Some of the volunteers are from the Retired and Senior Volunteer Program (RSVP) headquartered at the Betty Ehart Senior Center in Los Alamos. The pullouts are also good places to watch elk in the caldera. If you want an even closer view of elk, check the VCNP website to sign up for a wildlife van tour.
Autumn
Golden leaves are falling even as some aspens are summer-green! In SFNF, on Guaje Canyon Trail 282, looking south across the blond meadow of Cañada Bonita, is Cerro Bonito, which is the next mountain north of Pajarito. The Valles Caldera rim goes over Cerro Bonito to Camp May saddle but is closed to the public, who own it, at least for the meantime.
The east rim of the Valles Caldera is composed by the Sierra de los Valles, the mountains west of Los Alamos, New Mexico. They are volcanic in origin too but precede by millions of years the formation of the Valles Caldera. Cerro Rubio isn't labeled on this map but it is the mountain northeast of the Cerros de los Posos, and just southeast of "Mountain" in the words "Shell Mountain".
Special thanks to Donald and Dorothy Hoard for their encouragement and help on this project.
Autumn
From Rim Run on Pajarito Mountain Ski Area, looking northwest and going clockwise above the aspens on the left, the slope of Cerro del Medio is next to a little piece of Cerros del Abrigo. Continuing around on the north rim are Cerro de la Garita, the nebulous bald splotches on far left horizon, and Garita Ridge-Hunter’s Point, the elongated bald triangle on the middle horizon. Then on the northeast rim, are the range of domes called the Sierra de Toledo, with the horseshoe shaped bald spot possibly being Cerro Toledo. At the edge of Valle de los Posos, valle in the foreground, are the west (left) and east (right, with tiny patch of yellow aspens) Cerros de los Posos, Cerro Toledo Rhyolite domes.
The significance of the tightly packed domes of the Sierra de Toledo is that they anchor the northeast rim of the Valles Caldera. The true northeast rim is located within a reciprocal conservation easement between Santa Clara Pueblo and the Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP). This easement abuts the boundary between Santa Clara Pueblo and the VCNP. The issue of public use and access within the VCNP side of the easement is one of the myriad issues that the VCNP will explore in years to come. People familiar with this area before 2000, when Baca Location No. 1 was purchased by the United States, say that there are beautiful views from this section of northeast rim. Perhaps with lots of patience, one day we’ll be able to see those views for ourselves. In the meantime, until the issue can be resolved, a check of Google Earth reveals lots of old logging roads that do not enter the easement. A way to bypass the easement, well below the true northeast Valles Caldera rim and the Santa Clara Pueblo boundary, could be explored but would require permission from the VCNP.
A lobe of Cerro del Medio separates the Valle de los Posos and Valle Grande(right) from the Valle Toledo (left). The Valle de los Posos births the San Antonio Creek, one of only two streams that drain outside the Valles Caldera. The headwaters of the other, the East Fork of the Jemez, arise at a divide between Valle de los Posos and Valle Grande. San Antonio Creek undulates through Valle Toledo and Valle San Antonio, toward San Antonio Mountain, and drains the northern and western caldera. The East Fork of the Jemez curves through the Valle Grande, through the Jemez National Recreation Area, and out San Diego Canyon, to drain the eastern and southern caldera. Both creeks join below Battleship Rock to become the Jemez River, which eventually empties into the Rio Grande.
The Valles Caldera rim mostly predates the actual caldera. Volcanism started in the Jemez Volcanic Field, which the Valles Caldera is part of, 14 million years ago and formed much of the highlands that now surround the caldera. The surface relief of these highlands is the topographic rim of the caldera and serves as the caldera’s water divide. On one side of the Valles Caldera rim, a raindrop trickles into the caldera and on the other, away from the caldera.
The rim is not the structural boundary of the actual caldera. The structural boundary is the perimeter of the ring-fracture around the resurgent dome and is well represented by the Valles Rhyolite ring-fracture domes (also called moat rhyolite domes) that surround Redondo. The difference in size between the structural boundary and the topographic rim of the caldera is mostly due to slumps and landslides that occurred after the collapse forming the caldera.
Cerro Bonito, with a yellow aspen grove on its shoulder, is the unofficially named mountain just north of Pajarito. On the horizon is Tschicoma, with its enticing triangular meadow, and the long, bald ridge that runs west of Tschicoma is the rim of Santa Clara Canyon. Tschicoma and Santa Clara Canyon rim are not on the Valles Caldera rim but are on the rim of the Toledo Embayment.
The Toledo Embayment is “stuck” onto the northeastern Valles Caldera and forms the northeast rim of the caldera but geologists do not consider the embayment to be a part of the Valles Caldera. The embayment may have formed at the same time as the Toledo Caldera collapse 1.6 million years ago and thus predates the Valles Caldera which collapsed 1.2 million years ago. One theory is that a small arm of the Toledo magma chamber extended into what is now the present day embayment area and when the Toledo Caldera evacuated itself, so did the magma chamber extension and the Toledo Embayment was formed. After that, the ring-fracture domes of the Toledo Caldera, collectively called the Sierra de Toledo, filled up the embayment and nicely formed the northeastern rim of the Valles Caldera when it was formed.
Late afternoon, from south meadow of Pajarito Mountain--the Valle Grande glistens with meanders of the East Fork of the Jemez. The south Valles Caldera rim wraps around the Valle Grande. Beginning, clockwise, are the broad, northern shoulder of Cerro Grande, the gentle, unassuming dome of Scooter Peak (with an unnamed peak between Cerro Grande and Scooter), and Rabbit Ridge west (right) of Scooter. On the middle horizon is South Mountain, next to a massive arm of Redondo. Skipping back across the Valle Grande from Redondo, a small lobe of Cerro del Medio hooks around Rincon de los Soldados, which is a small nook of the Valle Grande, nestled between the East Fork of the Jemez and Cerro del Medio.
In October 2006, this was the first snow I saw in the Jemez Mountains. Taken from the entrance road to Valle Grande Staging Area, VCNP Road VC01, the image shows a portion of the east and southeast caldera rims. Low hanging clouds obscure Pajarito Mountain’s tree speckled south meadow while clouds have lifted above Cerro Grande’s snow powdered hump. The East Fork of the Jemez crosses under the road.
Winter
This view of the northeastern and northern Valles Caldera rims from the freshly groomed Rim Run on Pajarito Mountain Ski Area was taken while snowshoeing to the top of Pajarito Mountain.
Valles Caldera Rim Trail will be cobbled together of existing trails, routes, and roads of different land ownership. They may not even connect together elegantly unless some new trail sections are built. Parts of the rim, Los Griegos, for example, have no trail at all in places that yet are quite walkable. Other parts have theoretical connectors which still need to be explored, like the southwest corner, with its steep cliffs and the disconnect between the south and west rim caused by heavily traveled, paved state highways.
The Valles Caldera rim landowners, Bandelier National Monument (BNM), Los Alamos Ski Club, Inc.(Pajarito Mountain Ski Area), Santa Clara Pueblo, Santa Fe National Forest (SFNF), and Valles Caldera National Preserve (VCNP), have not even officially signed on to the concept of Valles Caldera Rim Trail yet. But you should not let this dissuade you from going out and walking the Valles Caldera rim today. The parts on BNM, Pajarito Mountain Ski Area, SFNF, and VCNP’s free Coyote Call Hike (not on the rim but has access to Rabbit Ridge which is on the rim) are open now for you to enjoy!
Pajarito Mountain’s double-barreled views into both the southern and northern ends of the Valles Caldera are incomparable! Redondo Peak and Redondito’s knob are seen from south side of Pajarito Mountain. Most anywhere on the Valles Caldera rim, you can safely say “Yep, there’s Redondo!”
After the powerful eruption that created the Valles Caldera, the magma chamber under the caldera eventually refilled but it had run low on volatile gases so instead of exploding magma, it uplifted the overlying rock and formed Redondo, the resurgent dome of the Valles Caldera. The resurgent dome actually broke into three segments due to faulting. Redondo Border is the western part of the resurgent dome and is separated from Redondo and Redondito, the eastern portion, by Redondo Creek. Yet a third section of the resurgent dome is located north of Redondito. It is bounded by the Jaramillo and San Luis Creeks and it is the least uplifted portion of the resurgent dome.
From the backside of Pajarito, this is looking at the south rim of the Valles Caldera with a snow-covered felsenmeer on Rabbit Ridge gracefully arcing above Valle Grande. Rabbit Ridge’s distinctive rock field is clearly visible even from the north rim and is a good indicator of toward which direction you’re looking. Rabbit Mountain, on the west end of Rabbit Ridge, is a dome of Cerro Toledo Rhyolite formed after the Toledo Caldera collapse. Beyond Rabbit Ridge is Las Conchas and Los Griegos, also on the south rim. Within the Valle Grande (right of center) is South Mountain with tiny Cerro la Jara in front of it--both are ring-fracture domes of the Valles Caldera.
Spring
At Camp May saddle, on the east rim, between Pajarito Mountain and Cerro Bonito, is a small view over toward the south rim’s Rabbit Ridge, with its snow covered, squarish felsenmeer popping up on the right. Felsenmeer means, literally in German, sea of rock; it’s also called a rock field or block field.
From a meadow at Camp May saddle, looking toward the westernmost of Pajarito’s two peaks. This is where Rim Run, the westernmost ski run (furthest right), offers expansive views of the northern and northeastern Valles Caldera rims. Hidden in the woods near Rim Run is a trail that contours around this western knob. Someone has marked it by screwing bicycle reflectors onto trees. It’s dubbed the Reflector Trail and starts from lower Rim Run at a rock outcropping where snowboarders like to jump off boulders. It begins by crossing a small rock field, continues through the woods, and ends on Pajarito’s south meadow, above Valle Canyon Pass. It could be used as a possible connecting route, skirting Pajarito Mountain instead of going over the top, but such a trail would first need clearing as there’s much downed wood. A much bigger hurdle is that the Reflector Trail is on VCNP property and off limits for now.
Of all the paid, reservation only hikes offered within the VCNP, the only one that accesses the Valles Caldera rim is the La Garita Hike, which follows an old logging road up to the north rim of Garita Ridge-Hunter’s Point. Rabbit Ridge, on the south Valles Caldera rim, is jointly owned by BNM and the VCNP and can be accessed from either the VCNP’s Coyote Call Hike or BNM’s Alamo Boundary Trail for free, no reservation required!
Looking east toward Los Alamos from grasslands of Cañada Bonita on Guaje Canyon Trail 282 in SFNF. This trail winds around the west side of Cañada Bonita meadow, just outside the VCNP boundary fence and the Valles Caldera rim. Along the trail, between Cañada Bonita and Cerro Rubio, there are small views into the Valles Caldera. In places, it looks like just a hop, skip, and a jump but watch those cliffs! It is a popular trail used by hikers, hunters, runners, cross-country skiers, snowshoers, bicyclists and even the odd bear or two! Leafless now, the aspens will make your heart sing with their beauty in autumn.
Where could Redondo be? On top of the world, looking southwest from the expansive felsenmeer on Cerro Rubio. Trees have invaded the rocks but the views are still world class. In front of Redondo (left to right), are a lobe of Cerro del Medio and the logging road scalloped flank of Cerros del Abrigo.
From Cerro Rubio, which is on the east Valles Caldera rim, Valle Grande is the far valle with Scooter Peak and Rabbit Ridge rising beyond on the horizon. On left, the ski runs of Pajarito Mountain Ski Area play peek-a-boo and Valle de los Posos is in the immediate foreground. On right, an arm of Cerro del Medio comes down, separating the Valle de los Posos from the Valle Grande.
The larger western dome of the Cerros de los Posos floats just in front of Cerro Rubio’s rock field, near the line of conifers. The Cerros de los Posos are Cerro Toledo Rhyolite domes that erupted after the Toledo Caldera collapse but before the Valles Caldera cataclysm. In the background (left), the logging road-scarred Cerros del Abrigo is a ring-fracture dome of the Valles Caldera.
Summer
This is looking northeast across the Valle Grande at the Valles Caldera east rim. Pajarito Mountain’s tree-sprinkled meadow is pink.
The pullouts off NM-4 are hugely popular with droves of people stopping to observe and enjoy the Valles Grande from the roadside. On summer weekends, volunteers “man” the pullouts to answer questions people have about the VCNP. Some of the volunteers are from the Retired and Senior Volunteer Program (RSVP) headquartered at the Betty Ehart Senior Center in Los Alamos. The pullouts are also good places to watch elk in the caldera. If you want an even closer view of elk, check the VCNP website to sign up for a wildlife van tour
Autumn
Golden leaves are falling even as some aspens are summer-green! In SFNF, on Guaje Canyon Trail 282, looking south across the blond meadow of Cañada Bonita, is Cerro Bonito, which is the next mountain north of Pajarito. The Valles Caldera rim goes over Cerro Bonito to Camp May saddle but is closed to the public, who own it, at least for the meantime.
The east rim of the Valles Caldera is composed by the Sierra de los Valles, the mountains west of Los Alamos, New Mexico. They are volcanic in origin too but precede by millions of years the formation of the Valles Caldera. Cerro Rubio isn't labeled on this map but it is the mountain northeast of the Cerros de los Posos, and just southeast of "Mountain" in the words "Shell Mountain".
Special thanks to Donald and Dorothy Hoard for their encouragement and help on this project.